For many bathrooms, the vanity is the centre of attention. If yours is in need of a face lift, check out this easy step-by-step tutorial for help on transforming the look of your vanity over a weekend.
Alright, before getting started on your project – or any project, for that matter, there’s a few basics that you’ll want to take care of. Clear your work area as best you can. If you can move it, get it out of the way. That’ll cut down on frustration and, possibly, damages while you work.
As well, if you can remove your cabinet doors – or any other fixtures, go for it. It’s a bit of initial hassle, but it will make your applications much easier and give you a more polished result.
Once all of that prep work is taken care of, the first thing you’ll want to do is clean and degloss the entire surface. You can use a bit of soap and water, or a damp cloth, to get any dirt and grunge off of it to start with. And you want to use this before using the deglosser – it will make it work better. Your Transformations kit includes a scrub pad that you can use with the Deglosser. And it’s an easy process and doesn’t require much effort. It’s a whole lot easier than sanding.
And finally, it’s time to do some painting…well sort of. If you’re working on a vanity or cabinet that’s affixed to the wall, you’ll need to get out the painters tape. Just like any other painting project, taping is important. It gives you a bit of freedom to be sloppy, and it will give you nice crisp edges.
Now it’s Bond Coat time! Two coats of Bond Coat, actually. Best to use a bit of finesse here. Careful not to soak your brush with too much bond coat – ‘cause it’ll make it more difficult to apply evenly. Brush with the grain, always with the grain, with nice, even strokes – you don’t want any drips.
The Bond Coat goes on pretty easily, but you’ll have to wait about 3 hours between coats. Mind you, that gives you some time to refinish your hardware. And if that is the route you take, it’s advisable to work on them in a separate work area. Somewhere that you can use your spray paint without worrying that it’s going to get on anything it shouldn’t…because if that happens at this stage, it could undue quite a bit of work you’ve already done. And of course, somewhere well ventilated is a must.
Give your hardware a good wipe-down and cleaning to get rid of any dust and dirt. Lay them out on a well protected table – newspapers will do the trick, and spray away. Nice and evenly, ensuring the entire handle is well covered. Then, let it sit to dry. By this time it’ll probably be time to get back to your cabinet.
Here’s where your transformation really comes to life – the Decorative Glaze application. Evenly brush the Decorative Glaze on to your surface. Then use your Decorative Glazing cloth to wipe it off. You might want to start with one of your doors. That way, you can get the look that you want…maybe you want it nice and light, or maybe you want it darker and heavier – really revealing the wood grains. Once you get it how you want it, you can use it as your reference when glazing the rest of your project’s surfaces.
By now, you’re probably feeling pretty proud of what you’ve done. You can use that positive energy to get you through the last step – the step that will give your project some protection…It’s called the Protective Top Coat. It helps protect your cabinet from scratches and scuffs…and general wear and tear that will show up without it.
Make sure this stuff is well mixed before you use it. It’s a bit delicate, so you’ll need to be careful. It dries quickly, so do your best to avoid brushing over areas that have begun to dry. Otherwise you might get some uneven textures or drips. Once that’s done you’ll need to do your best to minimize the amount of dust kicked up while it dries…so, take shedding dogs and table-sawing elsewhere. This will have to sit overnight to dry.
That’s about it. A fairly simple job that you can definitely be done over the course of a weekend. Monday morning, you can wake up to a new looking cabinet.